Milan’s fashion Friday: DSquared2, Kiton, and Miu Miu

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 13, 2024

DSquared2 goes distressed and destroyed; Kiton trumpets tailoring, and Miu Miu Select fetes Cailee Spaeny in a contrasting opening Friday of action of Milano Moda Uomo.
 

DSquared2

Now that’s what you call a gob-smocking finale. As designer twins of Dean and Dan Caten took contrasting bows after their latest DSquared2 show in Milan on Friday night.

The identical brothers normally wear exactly matching outfits when taking their bows. Not this season, as Dan appeared as disco dragon in tight black trousers and clinging shirt, whereas Dean donned tights, a corset dress with long train, high heels and a femme-fatale flaming red wing.
 
The duo brought the house down inside south Milan show space Superstudio in a roaring ovation. Marching before a glistening white backdrop that looked like a five-star space station. The clothes, on the other hand, were a collection of destroyed sweatshirts; muddied tops or jean splattered in mud and snow. Many models were smeared in dirt. While the Canadian duo trimmed pretty much everything in faux-pony collars and fake fox.

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For guys, trapper dudes in humongous hiking boots patched-up jeans, and chunky parkas stomped about the set. Their dates wore off the shoulder shearling jackets, and some great denim jeans, their edges finished in fake frost. 
 
The mood switched for evening, with some excellent tailored sequin tuxedos for guys, or saucy black lingerie looks and cut-out gowns for gals.
 
Talk about a great romp by the one brand in Milan that always looks like it’s going to have fun. As the Catens enjoyed their finale, taking a long bow as the soundtrack boomed out George Michael’s classic 'Freedom! ‘90'.
 

Kiton: Tailoring school

It speaks volumes about Kiton’s brand quality and DNA when you discover that their tailors are better dressed than many editors and most influencers in Milan this week.

That was apparent at 'Tailoring School A Journey Into Education', a five-day artisan installation staged inside the Triennale, Milan’s great modern design academy.
 
A score of tailors, seamstresses and cutters were all weaving away, patiently creating the delightful soft-shoulder jackets for which Kiton is famed. If Kiton was a chef it would have three Michelin stars; if it was fine wine, it would merit four stars from Hugh Johnson; if it were a gymnast then rank it up there beside Biles. Its quality is that impeccable.
 
“The Triennale invited us into the space. They wanted to highlight the skill and art of tailoring and we wanted to do that as,” explained Maria Giovanna Paone, scion of the family that built and owns this unique fashion resource.
 
Based in north Naples, Kiton has a workforce of 450, over 300 of which are tailors. The artisans’ evident pride in their jobs and quiet diligence, making for an elegant moment in a busy day in Milan. 
 
Scores of professions today feel threatened by AI, but it’s hard to imagine technology ever replacing these intensely personal skills, the very backbone of Italian fashion and indeed of the wonderful culture that is Italy.
 

Miu Miu Select by Cailee Spaeny

Well now, there are boutiques and there are fashion happenings, and Friday’s cocktail inside Miu Miu’s via Sant’Andrea store was very much the latter.

The latest episode of Miu Miu Select, where a happening lady actors or directors create their own edit of the collection. This season it was the turn of Cailee Spaeny.
 
A brilliant new actress, whose break-out performance is in Sofia Coppola’s biopic 'Priscilla', where she stars as the wife of Elvis Presley.
 
“I just wanted to go with clothes that I would feel comfortable in. And, no surprise, coming from Tennessee,  I chose denim dungarees,” chuckled the actress, who was recently nominated for a Golden Globe for best female actor in a motion picture. 
 
He choices: brown chambray work jackets with corduroy trim; micro shorts and faded denim pants and tops finished with black strass and jet. Just like what Cailee wore to this cocktail, which felt like the most insider event in Milan today.