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In Milan, MSGM and JordanLuca showcase underground fashion
Dark tunnels and dimly lit cellars have emerged as trendy venues for Milan Fashion Week. MSGM showcased its urban collection in the Milanese subway on Saturday, displaying unique design elements. Simultaneously, JordanLuca chose the warehouses of Central Station to unveil a British-inspired and lively Autumn/Winter 2024-25 collection.
To attend MSGM's show, one had to venture into the depths of the subway, specifically Porta Venezia station, renamed MSGM for the occasion. MSGM isn't the first brand to choose the Milanese subway as a venue; Palm Angels also organized a show there in June 2019, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of an urban jungle.
This time, the theme of speed took center stage, along with design influences drawn from the remarkably modern furniture and signage of the iconic Line 1. Designed in 1964 by the rationalist architect Franco Albini and graphic designer Bob Noorda, the collection draws inspiration from the line's timeless layout, marking its 60th anniversary.
The powerful rush, accompanied by the typical subway whistle, served as a soundtrack while images of swiftly moving trains adorned the station walls. These images, created using artificial intelligence in collaboration with Google, were reproduced as prints on shirts, T-shirts, shorts, or as abstract motifs on jacquard sweaters. "The use of AI for creation is both fascinating and unsettling, even a bit disconcerting, but it's the language of today," admitted Massimo Giorgetti backstage.
Apart from these printed elements, the collection for the upcoming winter by the Italian designer was rather understated and very design-oriented, punctuated with a few twists. Neoprene replaced leather in some suits, fur-lined collars, jackets, and colorful long-haired slippers, and multicolored pins on denim ensembles were notable features. Not to forget the retro motorcyclist glasses reimagined in a futuristic style.
The entire collection spoke of speed and sudden accelerations. The wind, as the train approached, inflated shirts and puff jackets. Subway rails traversed along sleeves or across the chest of polos and knits, creating a clean geometric effect. The recognizable red tube-shaped railing of the Milanese subway became a prominent question mark on a long black coat, a brooch on a dark sweater, and an accessory to be carried by hand.
Indeed, the iconic vibrant poppy red of Line 1 ran through the predominantly black wardrobe, infusing vigor, particularly through knits, cardigans, and a coat in a dazzling hue. Other flashes of pop colors, such as turquoise and lemon yellow, made occasional appearances. The collection gave rise to a collaboration between the designer and the Franco Albini Foundation, continuing with the creation of a series of carpets.
At JordanLuca, it was a swinging London atmosphere, where in one evening, in the depths of a dark cellar adorned with numerous silver balloons, Mods in zip-up parkas and tailored suits crossed paths with punk figures sporting mohawks, holey pullovers, and wide leather pants, perched on tall black stiletto boots. If the latter carried their indispensable umbrellas, they traded the briefcase and bowler hat for a bag with long straps trailing on the floor and an aviator-style hood.
The silhouettes were elongated and tapered, occasionally featuring rounded balloon volumes, like the "bulldog" bomber, giving an American footballer vibe. This season, it was rendered in a cream-colored knitted version reminiscent of grandpa's long johns. The monolithic, square-cut coat with broad shoulders, extending straight down to the calves, was crafted from white speckled Harris Tweed, resembling hyena fur. As for the women, they embraced strict yet sexy suits, as well as form-fitting or fluid dresses in lace, latex, or leather.
The couture streetwear label, founded in London in 2018 by Englishman Jordan Bowen and Italian Luca Marchetto, continues its ascent with impeccably constructed garments infused with intricate details. All the signature elements created by the duo over the seasons were present: the double-collared shirt, horizontal zips on the bars and vertical ones at the back of pants, trailing pants, kilts, coats, and jackets. Now, there was the addition of eyeglass cords transformed into metal rods, each end terminating in a ring, quite handy for attaching one’s thumbs.
For the past three months, the brand has had a new CEO, Radovan Biberovic, who has worked as the operations director for Tomorrow London for the past four years. He aims to accelerate the development of JordanLuca, which currently has only about 20 multibrand retailers, primarily in Italy and London, as well as in South Korea, China, and Japan. "The team and designers are amazing, as is the company, which has great potential. We will focus on our e-shop, the Asia-Pacific region, and the United States," he indicated on the sidelines of the show.
Supported from the outset by an industrial partner, JordanLuca also invested last year, through a minority stake, in an Italian sheep farm in the Marche region, struck by the earthquake that devastated the area in 2016. "It's the Sopravissana dei Sibillini, which breeds locally endangered sheep. It's our way of supporting the territory and local communities. Our knit pieces are crafted with the wool from these sheep, whom we all personally know," said Luca Marchetto with a broad smile.
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