Dior Men: A day in the life of Rudolf Nureyev

A day in the life of Rudolf Nureyev, and a great deal of the dancer’s wardrobe, was the inspiration for the latest Dior menswear collection by Kim Jones.

A loving homage also to Kim’s uncle Colin Jones, a former Royal Ballet dancer, who became a talented photojournalist. So much so that Colin photodocumented a day in the life of Rudolf for Time Life magazine, capturing the Tatar dancer and choreographer at ease around English parks and pubs. Images turned into a hardback book and charming present for this show staged in a giant circus style tent at the back of the Ecole Militaire.

Dior’s resulting collection captured all that was memorable in Nureyev’s aesthetic: a fondness of dashing 60s London tailoring; and an endearing love of camp and weakness for Asian potentate chic.

Kim opened with multiple references to Rudi’s love of big shorts and deep gorge tops, worn under iridescent raincoats. Interspersed with some marvelous silk and super fine wool suits – cut with wrap jackets, their lone button hidden. And the crispiest coats in subtle gray and anthracite chalk-stripe, again wrapped - and held with two displaced buttons.

The dancer’s signature painter’s knotted cloth caps topped most heads, his matelassé silk dance slippers anchored many looks.

Back in 1961 Nureyev defected to the West, and gradually developed into a famed fashion icon. Jones is not the first LVMH to reference Nureyev. A decade ago, John Galliano staged a sexually charged homage to the dancer – departing from Saint Petersburg in a legendary Russian beaver coat before launching cross dressing in 1970s discotheques. This was Galliano’s last signature show before his career imploded in an angry rant, rendering the collection instantly forgotten.

Jones had a gentler and far more opulent view of Rudolf, ending the show with a euphoric display of beautiful coats and tops finely embroidered in snow crystals. From a stunning crystal mesh tunic and an off the shoulder alligator blouson to a toile de jouy tank and matching backpack in silvery threaded embroidery and a glimmery anthracite crystal dressing gown.

Though he cut a glorious swathe through our universe, Nureyev’s life was not the easiest one. He was born on a train on the Trans-Siberian railway. His Tatar father reportedly beat him to stop him pursuing the unmanly profession of dancing. He died aged just 54 of AIDS outside Paris.

Jones was better treated by his male relatives, especially uncle Michael, whose first wife Lynn Seymour frequently partnered in ballet productions of Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet.

“Sadly, Colin passed away in 2021. However, he remains a great inspiration for me to this day. The Dior Winter 2024-2025 men’s show is dedicated in memory of Colin and his brother Michael, my late father,” read Kim’s introduction to the photo book and this very fine and noble collection.

Dior Men: A day in the life of Rudolf Nureyev

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